OHAGURO (not suitable for addicts)
A very easy trip to a pristine beach at the island’s southern end. Visit the Ses Salines lighthouse and walk some 30 minutes to the Es Caragol beach, on the way enjoying the endless ocean blues that skirt the path, until arriving at an indescribable place full of white sand and turquoise water. Renting a car and going at sunrise or sunset is recommended. A gorgeous spot for lovers of snorkelling. After the trip, stop to have lunch or dinner at the Bodega Barahona, also known as Casa Manolo. We recommend the jig-caught squid, rice with lobster or arroz de notario (rice brimming with seafood, must be ordered in advance). The rest of the fish and seafood are just as delicious.
Only Manolo* can get you addicted to squid. Yes, addicted. Knife in hand and with delicate skills, Manolo proceeds with his work while giving you a master class in “squidological”* presentation and pairing ?. You wait, hoping anxiously that the specimen is a female with roe.
As if from lotus pitch,* or a result of the aristocratic Japanese custom of “ohaguro,”* you don’t expect to discover that after your joyful meal you look like you’ve emerged from a Himalayan tribe, with years of devotion to the lotus.
Once there, jug after jug of chilled ribeiro, sublime grilled rock mussels, clams, and, of course, the salad! (No, not Russian, but genuine). Now imbued with a celestial euphoria, the cephalopod arrives, drizzled with olive oil and salt—from Es Trenc*—and without wanting to, you unleash a great big “ohaguro” smile ???.
In snail mode,* seeking the sun, you get yourself to the sea, happy as can be with your wide INKY SMILE…*
By Regina Palomero
*Manolo, the character who runs the Bodega Barahona, aka Casa Manolo, in the Ses Salines area. Speciality: jig-caught squid and rice with lobster and seafood.
*Squidological: related to squid.
*Lotus pitch: edible plant consumed in the East that turns teeth black.
*Ohaguro: aristocratic Eastern custom of dyeing teeth black as a sign of wealth and power.
*Es Trenc salt: salt from the Es Trenc salt flats—a recommended visit.
*Inky smile: After eating a jig-caught squid your teeth will turn black and you’ll get a laugh when you see your companion smile.
*In snail mode: There’s a pristine beach in Ses Salines called Es Caragol (“Snail”) beach and a visit there is highly recommended.